Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915 Review

Patterns for Theatrical Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915
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At first glance, a costume historian would not be impressed by this book's oversimplified patterns and lack of detail. Its renderings of the human figure are cartoonish, and no instructions for esoteric closures and construction are provided.
However, the Holkeboer directed her opus toward the theatrical costumer: an individual who must cobble together a volunteer staff, construct garments for modern bodies, and adapt to quick-changes between scenes. The patterns are necessarily basic; the cuts are nearly authentic; and the suggestions of embellishment design save the costumer much time. This book is not some tome to be displayed on a shelf; it belongs in the studio, its spine creased, its cover dog-eared, and its pages scribbled with measurements and notes. This book is a workhorse. An added bonus is its illustrative use of labels for describing many weird terms, among them: simar, barbette, picadils.
I have found in no other book of scaled patterns but this one, the instructions for THREE methods of enlargement: optical projection, grid method, and radial projection. This book also includes headgear, specialty costumes like kimono, ecclesiastical garb, and a LION! This book also prevides a wonderful equity of both men's and women's clothing which is unfortunately not represented in the body of dramatic literature. (Why are there so few women's roles? But I digress.)
The introduction and final chapter contain essential information on fitting and draping (remember: you must add your own seam allowances) and millinery and corsetry. I'd have given this book another star if I felt that it did justice to constructing corsets -- these items are too complex to build from Holkeboer's 1/8" = 1" scale. But she is absolutely correct in providing undergarment patterns if only to emphasize that they are necessary for achieving a true period look. Also, this book needs either a durable sewn or spiral binding to lie flat for usage. The glued softcover is impractical.
This book cannot function as the only book in a costumer's library; supplement your collection with costume books on period styles to achieve variety in design. As far as PfTC being indispensible to a costume shop, I don't recommend buying a copy of this book; buy TWO!

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